Malverde, a Robin Hood Bandido, was executed near the railroad station here. His shrine is a visit to a half-church, half-cult. He is the People's Saint, he's venerated, prayed to and hundreds attest to answered prayers. He the Mexican Saint for Lost Causes.

Down the coast there are working towns and business cities. These are places tourists come from, not the places they go to visit.

But everywhere travelers can skirmish with adventure. Culiacán is a business city built on a huge grid with broad streets, so broad with long blocks that walking is not an option. It is crossed by a green belt, the malecón paseo, along the river, and there is a Shrine to Malverde.

Malverde, a Robin Hood Bandido, was executed near the railroad station here. His shrine is a visit to a half-church, half-cult. He is the People's Saint, he's venerated, prayed to and hundreds attest to answered prayers. He the Mexican Saint for Lost Causes.

His shrine at the railroad station where he was executed is a furnace of candles. The devout enter, cross themselves and bring their troubles to Malverde. Some of their prayers are answered and plaques attest to his influence.

Shiny, smooth plaster statutes of Malverde are for sale. Strangely they look like the complement to Kewpie Dolls at a carnival.

Palomar de los Pobres (of the poor) is a restaurant. Actually, it's a family-run chain in Culiacán. The name is a play on the name Palomar Del Rio, but de los Pobres has real significance. The house specialty is bean soup, delicious and a surprise. Because all meals are served with bean soup and it arrives at you table in a ceramic pot that keeps the soup hot.

When the restaurant opened over 40 years ago, anyone in need could ask for a free serving of bean soup to take out.

Along with the beans come "tortillas doradas" crispy, burnt golden tortillas that crackle with a bite.

Dick Davis travels frequently. He has taught in both Mexico and Spain and is happy to share his experiences. A resolute companion in his Mexican travels is his Grand Marquis. He can be contacted at:  This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it .

This story is from my Forty Days in Mexico.

The previous story in the series is Topolopambo.
The next story in the series is Mexcaltitán: Home of the Aztec People.