Mexico Mosaic: The Journey Continues

The Sierras and Parque Nacional Cumbres (National Summits Park) have been described as "the best scenery in the world.” I had a list of places to see: Cola de Caballo, Puerto Genoveva, El Manzano, Cienega de Gonzales, Cañon de San Cristobal, Cañon de San Isidro and Laguna de Sanchez, a dry lake. It would be an all-day drive into the mountains. I preferred to have some company and be free to look at the sights rather than watching the road.

A taxi driver, Carlos Amador, had been recommended as an individual who would provide a nice tour. Carlos agreed to $10 an hour and a minimum of 5 hours. He outlined the route. We would follow a canyon-gorge route into the mountains to see waterfalls, lakes, streams, camping sites and the mountain towns.

We left early the next morning and stopped at Hotel Cola de Caballo for breakfast. Our table overlooked the canyon and a cantilevered platform, which was Mexico’s first bungee jump site. We hiked the short distance to the waterfall and then drove into the mountains.

We visited a family-style campground, which was built among the pine trees. There were log cabins and spaces for tents for rent. The cabins were small homes, with kitchens and plenty of sleeping area. Vacationing families could enjoy soccer fields, playgrounds, and picnic tables. A shallow stream flowed through the valley. Children could wade or ride an inner tube. There was a chapel for church services and a large thatched building for parties.

Carlos drove slowly, dodging potholes. He acted like a guide commenting on the trees, vegetation and wildlife and how the canyons changed with the seasons.

At our last stop we arrived at the hilltop town of Laguna de Sanchez. It overlooked a lake that had been drained dry, and its rich soil was now planted in corn and alfalfa.

Laguna de Sanchez was a rustic village. The streets were unpaved or once paved, and old stone buildings, some neglected and abandoned, added to the rural charm. Nearby horses cropped the grass, and children in bright blue uniforms walked by on their way home from school. 

A small grocery store on the hilltop, Abarrotes Valdez, sold beer and sodas, and there were tables and chairs in front on the patio. I asked the lady, "If we buy our drinks here, may we use the tables for our picnic?" "Of course," she said. I reached into the back seat of the taxi and picked up my picnic basket. I surprised Carlos. I dressed up the white plastic table with a blue and white checked tablecloth. Then I laid out our picnic: blue plastic plates, utensils, white napkins, cheddar cheese, sliced ham, mayonnaise, mustard, olives, wheat bread, raisins, Jello cups, Oreo cookies, potato chips and apples.

We shared in our good fortune.  It was sunny and warm.  A pleasant light breeze chased a leaf across the patio. We lingered.  Carlos bought a second soda from the store.  We sat in the shade under a canvas awning and admired the grocer's cut flowers ablaze in color set along a stonewall near an arched entrance.  We had chosen the perfect site for our lunch.

The next day I would be headed to Hacienda Santigo Subdivision.

Hacienda Santiago Subdivision

I was on my own, driving the Grand Marquis and eager to check out the Hacienda Santiago subdivision located near Cola de Caballo (Horsetail) Hotel and waterfalls. New homes were being built within walking distance to El Centro, a small town with an attractive plaza conveniently located near Highway 85 and only minutes from Villa Santiago.

Lots were for sale, four houses were under construction and one was offered for purchase. Construction workers swarmed around the “For Sale” property. The owner-speculator, Efren Ajona, told me, "It will be finished in May." But “finished” didn't include the kitchen. Efren said, "Mexican women like to choose their appliances, cabinets, and design. We're a macho country, but women rule."

Hacienda Santiago is a gated and walled subdivision for 130 houses. Streets are named for cities in Spain: Torremolinos, Mallorca, Toledo, Oviedo and Andalucia. The streets curve gently into cul-de-sacs. Homeowners have access to the river that borders the subdivision. There is an attractive trail that invites one to stroll along the riverbank and enjoy a wonderful view of the jagged Sierra Madre Mountains. As I stood on the second story balcony of Efren's speculation house, I could see the Boca Reservoir and a number of towns and villas. Santiago Apóstol Church stood in the distance. Standing in the valley I felt cupped in Nature’s creation, walled in by the jagged Sierra Madre Mountains. As I looked up, I felt I was viewing the blue sky from inside the lower serrated jaw of an ancient fossilized dragon.

These were magnificent home sites.

I asked about prices. Efren reached for a calculator and converted square meters and pesos into square feet and dollars. The 3 bedroom, 2-1/2 bath, 2-car garage, 2190 square feet house was offered for $129,629. But the buyer would still have a shell for a kitchen. This individually designed home, set in an exclusive vacation retreat, was $59 per square foot. The asking price per square foot was less than the houses in the Campo Real and Bonanza subdivisions, which I had visited near Nuevo Laredo.

"How is a house financed in Mexico?" I asked. "Fifty percent down when the contract is signed, and the final 50% is due when completed and the keys are turned over to the owner."

"Can one finance long term?" I asked. "That's up to the buyer and the bank. Banks charge 2% per month on the unpaid balance," he explained. There is no escrow or title insurance. A notary records the transaction.

I thanked Efren, put the Grand Marquis in gear and headed for Presa La Boca (The Mouth Reservoir).

Báhia Escondida

I took the Carreterra Vieja (Old Road) to the bank of Boca Reservoir. I parked on the sand and walked over to greet a man, who was fishing. "Have you caught any fish?" I asked. He was enthusiastic, but hadn't yet made a catch. I asked about the village in the distance, across the lake. "That's Hotel Báhia Escondida, (Hidden Bay Hotel)," he said. Other private houses filled up the cove and appeared to be equal in size to the hotel. He told me, "It's a resort for rich families from Monterrey." I was interested, so I added Hotel Bahia Escondida to my mental list of places to visit.

It was tricky to find the road to the Hidden Bay. A median, partially landscaped, partially cement barricade, divided Highway 85, and there were few places to cross from one side to the other. Generally U-turns were made from the inside left lane at a wide intersection, but here, recent construction had placed the U-turns underground for increased safety. Intersections were like invisible cloverleaves.

The first experience was confusing. A sign announced a U-turn up ahead, but instead of moving to the left, the driver needed to go right, take an off ramp, and make a sharp left under a bridge and another left to get back up on the highway. This wouldn't be so difficult if the signage was consistent. But even when I was on the same side of the highway as Hidden Bay, I missed the turn-off. It took me three tries to find the right road to Hidden Bay.

Hotel Bahia Escondida is a membership hotel, resort, convention and sports center with an Olympic sized swimming pool surrounded by white chaise lounges for sun worshipers. They have tennis courts, a children's Water World, a marina, jet skis, and bicycles for rent. The hotel caters to families and conventions. There is a grand outdoor restaurant and bars, and they are open to the public. Members pay half price. The hotel is nestled above a cove in a broad ravine, beautifully landscaped with palms, bougainvillea and floral arrangements. Rooms and the open-air restaurant offer views overlooking Boca Reservoir and in the distance the saw-toothed Sierra Madre range.

When I arrived at the reception desk I was greeted in hushed tones. Father Ignacio Larranaga was leading a 5-day Prayer and Life Workshop. He was teaching people how to pray. There were contemplation sessions, and guests sought quiet solitude. As I walked to the restaurant, next to the sky blue pool, I saw many individuals sitting alone, often reading a devotional book. Each sat quietly, in solitude, seeking a spiritual unity with God.

My first thought was, "Strange to pray at a hotel instead of a church." But then I recalled that churches in California often have spiritual retreats at Lake Tahoe and Asilomar, where one is close to beauty and nature. Bahia Escondida was an attractive setting and during the week it was a quiet place, void of families that crowded the hotel on weekends.

It was near lunchtime. I sat alone in the restaurant and asked if I could order breakfast. Carlos, my waiter, said, "Of course," in English. He was 18 and had spent 8 years in Houston. His father a carpenter, had saved and brought the family back to Mexico. Carlos said, “I’d like to return. I have legal residency, the money is better, but the family prefers Mexico."

I sat at a table for eight. I looked around. Tables were set for either 8 or 10 guests. This was Mexico. Families vacation together, and often there are three generations.

I ate my late breakfast then walked back to the parking lot. The Grand Marquis rolled slowly and quietly to the main gate. I looked at my map, and located Parque Ecologico Cañon de la Boca (Mouth of the Canyon Ecological Park).

 Dick Davis travels frequently. He has taught in both Mexico and Spain and is happy to share his experiences. A resolute companion in his Mexican travels is his Grand Marquis. He can be contacted at: This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it .